Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
